Potty Training Your Adult Dog

Introduction

My method of training can be used for any age, size, or breed of dog. The length of training could take 7 -30 days. The longer you train, the more reliable your dog.

Step 1: Preparation

Training goes much smoother when you prepare ahead of time. Obtain these items and setup the training area before you begin. The ideal equipment for this training is a dog crate, but you can use an X-pen or baby gate. Round out your preparations with a leash and a collar. Choose a convenient location to place the crate.

Step 2: The Schedule

Decide on a feeding schedule, for example morning or evening, or morning and evening. Create a walking ‘to the potty spot’ schedule to coincide with the feeding schedule. The walks always occur 15 to 20 minutes after feeding. Add a “first thing” in the morning walk and the  “last thing” at night walk.  Your adult dog may need a 3 AM walk, but this can be  cured by removing water after 6 PM. I recommend at least 4 walks per day. The walk can be anywhere; around the block, in the backyard, etc.

Step 3:  The Implementation

The last step is to implement the plan. Whenever the dog cannot be watched, the dog should be in the crate.  Your day starts with a morning walk, then feed, water and walk. If time permits, have a little playtime and back to the crate. Continue on with your schedule and as the dog grows more reliable you can allow longer periods outside of the crate.

Conclusion 

He who hesitates usually has a pile or a puddle to cleanup. As the free time outside the crate increases so does your observation of the dog. Accidents are accidents. If you catch the dog in the act, grab him and run outside. If you happen to miss the event, but come upon the evidence of the accident; remember you are at fault so do not beat the dog, but do correct something you missed in the first 3 steps.        

       The Sassy Trainer

From the hills of Arizona...

Remember, if ya cannot stand the sass, then get out of my blog!

Should I Shave My Dog's Coat?

Should I Shave My Dog’s Coat

by Dr. Michael C Fleck, DVM

Shaving all the hair off of the pet, especially the double-coated (heavy coated) dogs, does not reduce the heat index nor make the dog more comfortable. "Shave Downs" are not recommended for heavy coated dogs because "Shave Downs" may trigger a skin disease referred to as "Coat Funk."

Increasingly there are more cases of skin cancer attributed to the pet's overexposure of sunlight. Overexposure to sun may result in sunburn, inflammation and dermatitis. All of those diseases may require your veterinarian's attention. With summer upon us, we need to protect our pets just as we protect ourselves from the excesses of the suns UVA and UVB rays. The following are guidelines to protect the pet from overexposure to the sun.

Don't forget, shaving the pet DOES NOT reduce the overheating of the pet and does not make the pet more comfortable. Also remember that shave down of fur bearing dogs like Pomeranians, Chows, Labradors, etc., may lead to Coat Funk, a severe dermatitis that may leave the skin permanently damaged requiring lifelong treatment.

From Tyler, Texas, If ya cannot stand the sass, get out of my blog!

No Benefits with CORN

CORN

by Tynia Johnson

Do not be fooled by the label! “Lamb & Rice” foods, for example, may still have corn as one of the primary ingredients. Remember, the front of the bag is trying to get you to buy the product and rarely admits to the poor ingredients inside. 

Corn is the ingredient most often used as the protein source. Meat is used more for flavoring and advertising. For most dogs, corn is difficult to digest and can cause health problems. The short list of problems is ear infections, itching, runny eyes, chewing feet or legs. It will also produce a lot of poop, pass a feed lot lately.

If you are unsure about whether your dog’s diet is corn-based, just read the ingredients label. Look for corn, corn gluten, corn meal and corn syrup. If any of these ingredients are present, they are probably among the first ingredients listed. Remember the back (or side panel) tells you the real story of what is in the bag.

In addition to their regular commercial diets, Hill’s Science Diet and Eukanuba both produce prescription diets. If your veterinarian has placed your dog on a prescription diet, you should discuss any concerns with your veterinarian prior to making any diet changes.

I recommended California Natural Dog Food. California Natural may appear to costs more per bag than the food you are currently buying, but if you weigh all the benefits, California Natural is actually less expensive. The corn-free food contains higher quality ingredients, is more nutrient-dense and more digestible. This means you can feed your dog less, and the bag will last longer. Over the course of time, you may not be spending that much more for dog food. Also factor in that you may see your vet less because you have a healthier dog and there is less poop to pick up! 

I find the Fish formulas to be the best for dogs with issues and I can see a difference in a month or so. For more info email me or visit the website.

From the Arizona desert, If ya cannot stand the sass, get out of my blog!

Things You Can Do at Home For Your Dog

Things You Can Do at Home

by Tynia Johnson, The Sassy Trainer

These are things that can be used for any age, size, or breed of dog. 

Give your dog a raw marrow bone (ask your butcher). This will maintain healthy teeth and gums. If your dog spends time in his crate, that would be  a great time to let him chew. It is good for expelling puppy teeth and is a better teething toy than your favorite shoes. 

Comb your dog. Begin combing your dog the day after grooming; NO MATTER HOW SHORT THE CUT. If you cannot get a comb through the day after grooming, then take him back for a refund. Aim for twice a week; 3 to 5 minutes should do the trick. Here is how to make the time: Place the comb on the coffee table in the TV room. Pick 2 days that you watch TV. During the 1st commercial break call your dog over, comb him (nose to tail) till the show comes back on. Repeat one more day that week. Repeat every week from now on. You will have a cleaner dog and a cleaner house. 

Change to natural treats. Find something your dog loves to eat. It can be a bit of apple or carrot or even her dog food (one kibble). By definition a treat is not a meal or even a regular occurrence. It is an event or item that is out of the ordinary and gives great pleasure, also, change how you treat. Instead of 15 treats today, consider one or 2 a day for a reason other than you love them. If you love them, give them a hug!

If ya cannot stand the Sass, then get out of my blog!

Potty Training Your Puppy

Introduction

My method of training can be used for any age, size, or breed of dog. The length of training could take up to a month. The longer you train, the more reliable your dog.

Step 1: Preparation

Training goes much smoother when you prepare ahead of time. Obtain these items and setup the training area before you begin. The ideal equipment for this training is a dog crate, but you can use an X-pen or baby gate. Round out your preparations with a leash and a collar. Choose a convenient location to place the crate.

Step 2: The Schedule

Decide on a feeding schedule, for example morning and evening, or morning, noon and night. Create a walking ‘to the potty spot’ schedule to coincide with the feeding schedule. The walks always occur 15 to 20 minutes after feeding. Add a “first thing” in the morning walk and the  “last thing” at night walk.  Very young puppies may need a 3 AM walk, but this is temporary, lasting only a week or 2. I recommend at least 4 walks per day. The walk can be anywhere; around the block, in the backyard, etc.

Step 3:  The Implementation

The last step is to implement the plan. Whenever the puppy cannot be watched the puppy should be in the crate.  Your day starts with a morning walk, then feed, water and walk. If time permits, have  a little playtime and back to the crate. Continue on with your schedule and as the puppy grows more reliable  you can allow  longer periods outside of the crate.

 Conclusion 

He who hesitates usually has a pile or a puddle to cleanup. As the free time outside the crate increase so does your observation of the puppy. Accidents are accidents. If you catch the puppy in the act, grab him and run outside. If you happen to miss the event, but come upon the evidence of the accident; remember you are at fault, correct something you missed in the first 3 steps.      


The Sassy Trainer 






If ya cannot stand the Sass, then get out of my blog!

Advanced Dog Obedience

Advanced Dog Obedience

by Tynia Johnson

Advanced dog obedience takes basic dog obedience to the next level; basic obedience off leash, retrieving, tracking, tricks and hand signals. You can add police dog, herding, competing, service dog and therapy dog training to this list as well. This level of training requires a higher level of commitment from both owner and handler. At this level you are both athletes that need regularly scheduled training and practice times. People at this level usually work, compete, volunteer, or hunt with their dogs. A few just want a very reliable pet. 

I feel the need to say to those who think they need a protection trained dog - NO! You do not. Most of your dogs simply function as a watch dog or alert barker - which is all most people will ever need. FBI studies say burglars will pass over a home if they hear any barking at all in the house.

Form the Nevada desert, If ya cannot stand the sass, get out of my blog!

Basic Dog Obedience

Basic Dog Obedience

by Tynia Johnson

Basic dog obedience includes a dog learning to sit, lie down, come, stay and walk calmly on leash. Basic good behavior includes doing and not doing a few  other things. For example, not excessively barking, not jumping on guests, not biting or chewing. Potty training is part of both basic good behavior and basic obedience, because either way, if your dog soils the house he will quickly acquire the label “bad dog”.

All dogs should learn basic obedience or manners just as children should. Small dogs that are not taught manners are a nuisance and on occasion dangerous. Medium and large dog that are not taught manners are a nuisance, but more often they are dangerous and a financial liability.  Impolite children can end up in jail or worse; the same fate befalls many unruly dogs-the pound or worse. With the dogs the solution is easy, training or behavior modification at any age.

Basic obedience and good behavior can be taught individually or in a group, at home or in other environments. There are always varying degrees of success that depend on the owner, the trainer, and the dog. For example, if the best trainer and the smartest dog were joined by an owner that never practiced or heeded any of the trainers advice, then the training would not produce many long term good results.  If you make the financial commitment to dog training, you should find the time to do your homework (just like when you were in school). The homework helps the dog training process to progress.

Over the years, I have found the best method of training to be the in-home scenario with as many household members as possible present. While in the home, we can discuss the specific problems and come up with effective solutions. I can see exactly what the family is experiencing, therefore the solutions suggested are tailored to the specific needs of the family. Small class settings can also benefit the family (pet) because social interaction and bigger distractions add to the training experience.

Under normal circumstances, one to 4 home visits or 6 to 8 classes is all that takes to create a pet that you can live with.

The Sassy Trainer

Bad Chewing

Good Chewing

If ya cannot stand the Sass, then get out of my blog.

Bad to the Bone

Bad to the Bone

by Tynia Johnson

Did your mom or dad ever say, “Do not look a gift horse in the mouth” or “A penny saved is a penny earned”?  If you did not hear these, then some other pearls of wisdom were surly heard. I would like to offer you another  - “You get what you pay for”. Feeling like I am "pulling your leg"? Wait, there is more...

Feeding and treating your dog is a form of payment. I know, I know. You never thought of it that way or you do not believe me. That is fine, I will explain. 

We all understand a reward - a fair return for good or bad behavior  or a thing given in recognition of one's service, effort, or achievement. So you might buy this for the treat but not the food?

Okay let us get down to it. How do you get your food - hunt, gather, garden, grocery store, food bank (just kidding), manna from heaven? If you do any of these things, including the food bank and the manna, you are expending energy or making an effort to acquire something to eat. Your efforts are rewarded and you either use the reward to buy food or the reward is the food. Generally, you have to expend a certain amount of energy to acquire a certain amount of reward. We generally call it work and dogs call it - meandering to the dish or giving the look (begging).

Dogs can behave anyway they want and are fed to the point of obesity. So if you continue to reward your dog they will continue to soil the house, ignore you, and bite the very hand that feeds them. If you could go to work, stay for 5 minutes per week and pick up a full salary for the month, what would be your motivation to work a full month? You may be paying your dog to be a rotten apple, and you know what effect a rotten apple has on things it comes in contact with.

For goodness sake, do not just stop feeding your dog!

Overfeeding is not the root of the problem; it is the fertilizer. If you want to stop spreading the poop and get to the root, call me. 

The Sassy Trainer

If ya cannot stand the Sass, then get out of my blog.

Pro Grooming vs Do It Yourself

Professional Grooming

vs

Do It Yourself Grooming

by Tynia Johnson

The newest thing I have seen (Las Vegas and Lehi, UT) for the do-it-yourselfer is the dog wash at the car wash. For $5 you get 7 min. and as many options as you have when you wash your car. You can wash (several options), rinse, condition, de-skunk, vacuum and blow-dry. My daughter and I thought it was a hoot and could not wait to try it.

As it happened, that day we only had $5 and a muddy Rottweiler, so we put the dog wash and ourselves (we are both pro groomers) to the test. We put the dog in the tub and the money in the machine. I was to wash and she was to turn the knobs and update me on the time remaining. I learned years ago that you need a plan of action at the car wash. The water pressure was wimpy, but we pressed on.

As the minutes ticked away, my daughter decided she needed to help. We were both scrubbing and at the 6 1/2 min. mark we were done with the wash and rinse. That left us 30 seconds to dry. When the machine shut off, we looked at each other and laughed. The average person using this setup will spend at least $10-$20 to wash their dog.  If the dog is a husky or any breed of the really hairy persuasion you are looking at $50 easily. We are both groomers, and we barely  got done with the 2 of us working at full speed. By the way, we did not get our dog, Precious, anywhere near dry. For comparison to the groomer remember that after the machine shuts off, you do not have clean ears, nails trimmed or a haircut. You might not have a clean and dry dog either. You make the call.

I think I would enjoy this more as a spectator than a consumer. In the summer, I could sit nearby with a sweet tea and laugh my head off. I would be laughing WITH them not AT them as I myself have tried the 7 minute wash-dry drill and failed.

Some of the other DIY options are discussed in the full article found on the website on the Grooming tips tab.

The Sassy Trainer

If ya cannot stand the sass, get out of my blog!

Let me know what you want to read about.

Buying Training Equipment vs Hiring The Sassy Trainer

Buying Training Equipment

vs

Hiring The Sassy Trainer

(it is my blog)

I am going to compare  buying training equipment versus hiring (me) a trainer.  But first a story. When I was 17, my grandparents thought it was a great idea to buy me my 1st car. I thought it was a great idea too, so I picked out a dark blue Toyota Corolla with a five-speed transmission. I am not exactly sure why I chose to get a stick shift (ok, it was cool). I had never driven a stick shift, nor had I even been in a car with a standard transmission. Actually, I  had not done much driving at all. 

My grandparents could have bought me a book (stick shift for dummies), or they could have hired a trainer. Thankfully, they chose the latter. As part of the terms of the sale, the salesman had to teach me to drive a stick (in retrospect, I kinda feel sorry for him). In the time it took for him to explain the basics and take me out on the road a few times (an hour), I may have gotten through half the book and burned out the clutch. One jerky week later I was driving my new car solo. So which is better? A. An hour of interactive instruction and roadtest, or B. 1-2 hours of booklearning and clutch burning. It is a no brainer -A is the way to go.

Sometimes it seems like the simple answer to your problems is spelled out on the infomercial at midnight.   All you need to do is purchase their equipment and your problems just dissolve. There is a secret to the success of this or any product....

In addition to buying the equipment, you are expected to read (and understand) the instructions, learn how to properly use the equipment, use the equipment properly for some unspecified amount of time and then you might achieve the desired results.

 And if it does not work you, try another and another and another product; or you begin to believe your dog is stupid or spiteful.

How many gadgets have you purchased?  How many gadgets have you  purchased to solve the same problem?  If you add up the amount spent on gadgets and the amount that you spent replacing carpet or furniture or shoes or whatever, how much have you spent?  And more importantly, is the problem solved?

Do not get me wrong, I have nothing against training equipment. I use it all the time. I have also spent years learning how to use it (or figuring out that it does not work); how long to use it, and what to do if something unexpected happens; it is my SASSY technique. You can buy the equipment, but not the SASSY technique.

I have experience using that equipment you just bought or something similar. I will show you how to use it, tell you how long you need to use it, explain what the progression looks like, and help you troubleshoot problems that ultimately will arise.

I work to fix your dog's existing problems with proven SASSY techniques (and sometimes equipment that I lend you), and also take time to show dog lovers how to prevent problems from ever showing up in the first place!

Again, I do not have any problem with the "equipment", but you also need SASSY technique to fix problems, and I love to teach it.

When learning how to train a dog it is important to try and do it correctly before the behavior issues become destructive.

Ultimately, if you hire The Sassy Trainer you will save yourself money, time, and headaches. I will help you create a pet you can live with.

would you rather this

    OR

THIS

                                                                  

Remember the rule here -

If ya can not stand the Sass, then get out of my BLOG! 

Stereotype vs Breed Type

Stereotype vs Breed Type

Several years ago, while out walking with my daughter, two men approached us. The hair on the back of my neck prickled. They were, after all, men, and I was basically alone with my 2-year-old. A lump rose in my throat and I broke out in a sweat. My 2-year-old stopped chattering. I realized I was gripping her hand and calculating my escape. I was very embarrassed when one of them said, “would you tell us where da Safeway?”  I quickly gave them directions, but noticed distaste that they did not follow them.

Was I right to be afraid? Did I stereotype them? Sometimes we need to make snap judjements.

Do we tend to ‘catagorize’ too harshly and too quickly? Are all men dangerous? All women catty? Are all redheads hotheads? Are all cats independent? Are all little dogs yappy? Are all _____? Fill in the blank with anything the answer is NO. There are always differences (and usually there are  some similarities). I’m not saying you are a bad person if you sterotype. I’m saying be aware of TYPE, BREED TYPE.

The important thing to take away from this is that within a dog breed there ARE some similarities. This is useful information when choosing and training your dog.  If you know why certain breeds were bred (developed), you can predict certain behaviors within that breed. The way a breeding program (of any animal) works is that during the developmental stages- if the dog is good at “it” (whatever it is) they are sought after to reproduce. So considering the hundreds of years of retrieving is there any wonder why your lab always need something in their mouth. Or why your herding dog keeps the neighborhood children in a tight little group or nips at their heels.

Understanding your breed’s original job will help you understand why they do certain things. Knowing your breeds original function should help you form realistic expectations for your dog. This information about original function should help you with choosing a new dog as well as your current pet. Samoyed puppies are very cute but after 6 months they don’t make very effective lap dogs. On the other hand a Pomeranian would make an perfect lap dog at any age.

Something else to keep in mind. Some ‘breeders’ do not consider a dog’s structure, temperament, or function, only the money; therefore, assuming your golden will retrieve is not necessarily a given. I’ve seen hound dogs that wouldn’t hunt anything but the couch, lapdogs that never sat still, and herding dogs that would rather be on the bed than with the herd. But knowledge is power and the more you know about the breed that you have or intend to acquire the more capable you will be to deal with things that arise.

If it is at all possible try before you buy, by visiting the pound or the dog parks, or dog shows and speaking to people who have the breeds that you’re interested in. Ask as many questions from as many people as you can. Query the veterinarian about illnesses or ailments known to affect the breed you are interested in. Ask the groomer about the frequency of grooming. Ask a trainer about the trainability; some dogs were actually bred to be stubborn.

Some dogs just are. There was no plan, nature called and ... They can be loved, and trained, and figured out also.

Wally learned to play at 9 yrs old

The Sassy Trainer, Tynia

If you can’t stand the sass, get out of my blog!

The Beginning

The Sassy Trainer’s Sass

An unusual opening for an unusually sassy trainer...

A prayer

I pray that I am faithful to my beliefs and to my clients. That I give good info and good insights that will ultimately keep dogs with their forever family.

I pray that dog owners (or guardians) are faithful to their commitment to their pet. That dog owner’s love and feed (not love by feeding), train and shelter, play and spoil (yes, I said spoil) their pets (and spouses and kids).

I pray that when Fido or Fefe misbehaves, that instead of permanently moving them to the yard, allowing them to destroy your home, giving them away, opening the front door saying “run be free!”, beating them (the spouse or the kids) in frustration or abandoning them at the groomers, the kennel or the pound I pray you call me...

 The Sassy Trainer

  tyniaj@mac.com

Amen

The training is only profitable to a receptive student, but the trainer needs to be knowledgeable and creative. This blog will primarily deal with obedience, problem solving, pre-adoption counseling (for pets:)  and pet nutrition. 

If you can’t stand the sass, get out of my blog!